Edinburgh's music scene operates in productive tension between two identities: the formal festival city that hosts the world's largest arts festival every August, and the year-round underground that keeps going in basements and 300-person venues when the tourists go home. The Fringe, the Jazz & Blues Festival, the Film Festival and the International Festival collectively bring 3,000+ performances to the city over three weeks each summer — but the locals will tell you that October through April, when the city belongs to itself again, is when Edinburgh music is at its best.
New to Edinburgh nightlife? The Old Town is for drinking; the New Town is for live music. Sneaky Pete's on Cowgate is Edinburgh's essential underground club — a low-ceilinged, sweat-soaked room that books an unbroken sequence of high-quality DJs and has done for 20 years. Cabaret Voltaire nearby is a converted vaulted vault that doubles as club and events space. The Liquid Room handles bigger electronic nights. For live music, La Belle Angèle and King Tut's Wah Wah Hut in Glasgow (one hour away) are the correct combination.
Traditional Scottish music lives in Edinburgh with authentic force: ceilidh nights at the Assembly Rooms run every weekend and are open to complete beginners; Sandy Bell's pub on Forrest Road runs continuous trad sessions every evening without a stage or announcement — musicians just show up. The Edinburgh Jazz & Blues Festival in July fills the city with outdoor stages. The RSNO (Royal Scottish National Orchestra) programmes at Usher Hall year-round.
Practical tips for first-timers: Edinburgh is surprisingly compact — the Royal Mile to Grassmarket to Cowgate circuit is walkable in 15 minutes; Lothian Buses run a reliable all-night service; the Edinburgh Festival period (August) requires booking everything months in advance and doubling your budget estimate. Cloud Atelier lists Edinburgh's music events year-round so you can plan around the sessions, club nights and shows that suit your timing.